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Hướng dẫn cách xếp li trong thiết kế thời trang

Kiến thức và kỹ năng trong thiết kế thời trang là rất nhiều. Có những kỹ năng tuy nhỏ nhưng lại rất quan trọng như là may nối, may viền, may xếp li.

Trong đó, may xếp li là một kỹ năng cơ bản để tạo thành các đường xếp li cho trang trí sản phẩm: Các kiểu váy, áo đầm, áo tay phồng, …làm tôn vẻ đẹp nữ tính, điệu đà cho người mặc. Vì vậy, cần hiểu và thực hành tốt các kiểu xếp li cơ bản để sản phẩm hoàn thiện và đẹp như ý muốn.

Mời các bạn tham khảo một số kiểu xếp li cơ bản dưới đây nhé.

May xếp li sóng

  • Những nếp vải được xếp cho nổi sóng lên và thường được áp dụng trên bộ quần áo đầm trẻ em, áo có cầu vai, cầu ngực, tay phùng hoặc may dún tai bèo trên áo,……
  • Li sóng có hai dạng: đều và không đều.

Cách thực hiện:

  • May gấp mép hoặc cuốn mép một cạnh vải dài.
  • May xếp li ở cạnh vải thứ hai.

Lưu ý: Khoảng cách giữa các li và bản li phải cùng chiều và bằng nhau.

hoc thiet ke thoi trang

Li sóng không đều (may dún)

  • May một đường chỉ thưa cách mép vải khoảng 3-5mm.
  • Cầm một đầu chỉ rút vải: dún lại tương đối đều nhau.
  • May dằn ngang đường thứ hai để giữ nếp vải.

Li sóng đều:

  • Gấp từng sóng vải, đều nhau, cùng một chiều. Ghim kim hoặc may lược khi đang gấp vải.
  • May dằn ngang để giữ nếp vải, đường may cách mép vải từ 3mm đến 5mm.
  • Là (ủi) kỹ, để các sóng li thẳng nếp.

Yêu cầu kỹ thuật:

Các li nổi sóng rõ ràng, khoảng xếp dún trải đều nhau (không có chỗ dày, chỗ thưa).

Li sóng đều: Cùng chiều và bằng nhau.

May xếp Li sâu

Một li sâu gồm hai nếp gấp của li sóng, hai nếp gấp hướng vào nhau, tạo khoảng vải ở giữa, chìm sâu vào bên trong. Kiểu li này thường được áp dụng trên áo đầm trẻ em, rèm cửa…

hoc thiet ke thoi trang

Cách thực hiện

  • May gấp mép hay cuốn mép ở một cạnh vải dài.
  • Xếp li ở cạnh vải thứ hai, xếp vải giống li sóng nhưng hai nếp gấp hướng vào nhau, hai nếp vải sát nhau.
  • May dàn ngang để giữ nếp vải.
  • Là thật kỹ để các đường sóng li thẳng, nếp gấp vải sát vào nhau.

Yêu cầu kỹ thuật

  • Hai nếp gấp hướng nhau thật sát, không hở.
  • Các li cách đều nhau.
  1. May xếp Li tròn

Một li tròn gồm hai li sóng, nhưng hai nếp gấp hướng về hai phía khác nhau, tạo khoảng vải ở giữa nổi phùng lên. Li tròn là bề trái cảu li sâu và thường áp dụng trên áo đầm trẻ em, khăn phủ giường…

hoc thiet ke thoi trang

Cách thực hiện: Giống li sâu, nhưng xếp hai nếp gấp quay về hai phía khác nhau.

Yêu cầu kỹ thuật: Các li xếp đều nhau thẳng nếp.

May xếp Li nổi gân

Những nếp vải nhỏ được may nổi trên áo để trang trí dọc theo thân áo, tay áo hay xéo ngang qua ngực áo. Những nếp vải này nhỏ khoảng từ 1mm đến 2mm hoặc to khoảng 1cm đến 2cm.

hoc thiet ke thoi trang

Cách thực hiện:

  • May li trên bề mặt vải.
  • Gấp vải theo đường thẳng.
  • Đường may song song với đường gấp vải, may li to hay nhỏ tùy ý.

Trên đây là một số hướng dẫn kiểu may xếp li cơ bản chi tiết, công dụng đến cách làm chi tiết. Hy vọng chia sẻ này sẽ giúp các bạn đang muốn tìm hiểu, tay nghề chưa cao sẽ có thêm chút kiến thức trong nghề may vá và cao hơn là thiết kế thời trang chuyên nghiệp nhé.

Nguồn internet

Chia sẻ ngay trên các MXH sau để tạo tín hiệu tốt cho bài viết :)
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